In partnership with the Mount Horeb Area Historical Society, I invite you to join me in May, 2023, on a trip to the land of Chloe’s ancestors!
Click the image below to see what we have planned.
We’ve partnered with Borton Overseas for our 2023 adventure. The company began in 1894 as Sunden, Vanstrum, and Co., specializing in steamship travel for Scandinavian immigrants coming to the U.S. We’ll have over a century of experience supporting our trip!
Click HERE for itinerary, pricing, and registration information.
If you have specific trip and travel questions, you may also reach out directly to Amy, Borton’s Scandinavian Specialist. amy@bortonoverseas.com 1-612-661-4634 800-843-0602
Discounts are available for members of Sons of Norway, Swedish Institute, Danish American Center, and Norway House.
For the safety and peace of mind of all, the Mount Horeb Area Historical Society kindly requests that travelers be vaccinated against Covid-19 to participate in this tour. Please keep this in mind when registering.
You’ll find more information on our dedicated trip website, including more insight into some of the places we’ll be visiting.
I’m dreaming of Norway. You too? I hope you can join us!
Click the image below to see what we have planned.
We have a Tour Norway With Kathleen website created just for the adventure! It’s your portal for trip information—hotel and destination links, a schedule of Constitution Day festivities (we’ll be in Bergen for the holiday), and more.
We’ve forged a relationship with Borton Overseas for our 2022 adventure. (Our original travel agent, who did so much to develop our plans, is enjoying a well-earned retirement.)
Borton Overseas began in 1894 as Sunden, Vanstrum, and Co., specializing in steamship travel for Scandinavian immigrants coming to the U.S. We’ll have over a century of experience supporting our trip!
Discounts are available for members of Sons of Norway, Swedish Institute, Danish American Center, and Norway House.
Note: If the pandemic presents any unexpected challenges for 2022, we will immediately contact you to discuss options. At this time, we don’t know if the Norwegian government will require vaccinations.
However, for the safety ad peace of mind of all, the Mount Horeb Area Historical Society kindly requests that travelers be vaccinated against Covid-19 to participate in this tour. Please keep this in mind when registering. The most up-to-date information regarding entry requirements will be provided as we get closer to our departure.
I’m dreaming of Norway. You too? I hope you can join us!
When I partnered with the Mount Horeb Area Historical Society and Group Travel Directors last yearto plan a trip to Norway , COVID-19 wasn’t on the radar. We forged ahead with a spring trip announcement, hopeful that we’d all feel safe traveling by May, 2021. The planning committee agreed that having something wonderful to anticipate could only brighten such difficult times.
Well, we get to enjoy that anticipation for a while longer than originally planned. I’m sure it will surprise no one to hear that the Chloe Ellefson tour to Norway has officially been postponed.
I’m as excited about this trip as ever, and we are committed to making it happen! Although we’re not announcing specific dates at this time, we hope to travel in spring, 2022.When we do arrive in Norway, we shall have special toasts all around!
If you’d like to be on our mailing list for trip-specific updates, let me know. We’re grateful for your interest and support. Please stay safe and well!
I write about special historic places in each of my Chloe Ellefson Mysteries, and nothing makes me happier than sharing them with readers.
Well, guess what?
I’ve teamed up with the Mount Horeb Area Historical Society to offer a trip to Southern Norway—the land of Chloe’s ancestors! Click the link below to see what we have in store.
When I decided on a Norwegian setting for Fiddling With Fate, the 10th volume in my Chloe Ellefson Mystery series, I chose the area that enchanted me most. Now, you can experience the Hardanger Region as well!
Important note: Although we’re making plans for a stupendous trip, no one can predict the future in these challenging times. We understand. We also know that anticipating an adventure can relieve stress! If the pandemic makes it necessary, the trip will be postponed for a year (with a possible adjustment in price), not canceled.
For more information contact:
Group Travel Directors 952-885-2133 800-747-2255 ext. 133 jtollund@gtd.org www.gtd.org
We also have a Tour Norway With Kathleen website created just for the adventure! It’s your portal for trip information, blog posts, and much more.
I am incredibly excited about this trip. I hope you can join us!
Norwegian people have used symbols to express important thoughts since ancient times. Even simple carved, painted, or stitched motifs on building or folk art often had important meanings.
Agnete Sivertsen, director of the Hardanger Folkemuseum in Utne, introduced me to the ritual use of symbols in old Norway while helping me identify an artifact handaplagg (hand cloth) to use as a prototype for one described in Fiddling With Fate, The 10th Chloe Ellefson Mystery.
Hand cloths were traditionally worn during weddings in the Hardanger region. The geometric motifs stitched into this cloth are more than pretty designs. They have meaning.
After showing me the cloth, Agnete took me to the Hardanger fiddle gallery. The intricate designs embellishing many old fiddles are similar to the designs embroidered in the handaplagg.
My fictional handaplagg is introduced in 1838, when Gudrun stitches symbols into a handcloth for her granddaughter Lisbet to wear for her wedding.
Gudrun spread the cloth she’d been stitching over her lap. It was old, but she’d cared for it well. The linen was still crisp; the original black embroidery silk still dark and even. Her own grandmother had stitched her blessings and fears into this cloth. Most of the symbolism Gudrun understood, but she’d been young when her grandmother died.
The maker is unknown, but the handcloth is believed to date back to the 1700s.
Are there messages in the patterns that I’ve missed? Gudrun wondered, touching the old threads with a gnarled finger. Have I misinterpreted something I’m meant to pass on? Will coming generations understand what I’ve contributed?
When Chloe fictionally inherits a similar hand cloth, she takes it with her to Norway. She gradually discovers some of the meaning incorporated into her cloth—and many other types of folk art as well.
Squares like the one below represent agricultural fields; smaller stitches within represent seeds. Such motifs reflected hopes of a fertile marriage.
Detail of the handcloth pictured above. Hardanger Folkemuseum, Utne, Norway.Inked design on fiddle. Hardanger Folkemuseum, Utne, Norway.
Circles and spirals were often used to symbolize male power.
Fiddle, Hardanger Folkemuseum, Utne.
Ram’s horns (the reciprocal spirals at the bottom of the mangle board shown below) were invoked to encourage male fertility.
Mangleboard, Utne Hotel, Utne.
Sun symbols summoned all that was good and warm and holy.
Some symbols protected the family and farm. For example, crooked designs like those below may have been intended to confuse and drive away evil spirits.
Kroting (chalk painting) done during a class at Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum.
The stitched figures below may represent the disir, spirits who guarded women and linked their families from one generation to the next throughout time.
Embroidered cloth. Norsk Folkemuseum, Oslo, Norway. (My apologies for the poor image quality.)
At the end of the book, Chloe asks an expert to share her thoughts about the symbols on her handaplagg.
Sonja smiled. “I think the women in your family wanted to protect their daughters and granddaughters from evil, and to bless their lives with love and balance and holy light.”
Love and balance and holy light, Chloe thought. Who could ask for more?
Do any symbols appear within your own family heirlooms or ethnic heritage? Have you included any in your own handwork? Feel free to share!
I write about special historic places in each of my Chloe Ellefson Mysteries, and nothing makes me happier than sharing them with readers.
Well, guess what?
I’ve teamed up with the Mount Horeb Area Historical Society to offer a trip to Southern Norway—the land of Chloe’s ancestors! Click the link below to see what we have in store.
When I decided on a Norwegian setting for Fiddling With Fate, the 10th volume in my Chloe Ellefson Mystery series, I chose the area that enchanted me most. Now, you can experience the Hardanger Region as well!
Important note: Although we’re making plans for a stupendous trip, no one can predict the future in these challenging times. We understand. We also know that anticipating an adventure can relieve stress! If the pandemic makes it necessary, the trip will be postponed for a year (with a possible adjustment in price), not canceled.
For more information contact:
Group Travel Directors 952-885-2133 800-747-2255 ext. 133 jtollund@gtd.org www.gtd.org
We also have a Tour Norway With Kathleen website created just for the adventure! It’s your portal for trip information, blog posts, and much more.
I am incredibly excited about this trip. I hope you can join us!
On my first trip to Norway, I experienced something special while visiting the Hardanger Folkemuseum’s open-air area.
Our guide, Maria Folkedal, took us into Tveismestova. I found the old farm so compelling that I used a fictionalized version in Fiddling With Fate, the 10th Chloe Ellefson Mystery.
Maria made it easy to imagine living in the building centuries ago.
Tveismestova, Hardanger Folkemuseum. Experts believe the structure is at least 700-800 years old.
Then she sang a lullaby that area mothers have used to soothe their babies for just as long.
It was a magical moment. Now, you can experience it too! Just follow this link to my YouTube channel.
Fiddling With Fate is about mothers and daughters, and Maria’s gift of song offered a new aspect of that theme. How could I not incorporate this experience into the book? Here’s Chloe’s take:
“I’d like to share with you a different aspect to life in the old days on the fjord,” the guide said. “Music has always been incredibly important to Hardanger people. This is a lullaby that local women have sung to their babies for hundreds of years.”
She began to sing. The lullaby, offered in a clear soprano voice, was hauntingly beautiful … and familiar. Chloe closed her eyes, taking it in. Had Amalie Sveinsdatter sung this to baby Marit? Perhaps the lullaby was somehow imprinted in Mom, Chloe thought, and got passed down to me.
Maria singing the lullaby in Tveismestova, August, 2015. (Sorry for the poor quality – it was dark!)
I’m grateful to Maria for sharing her talents, and so happy to share her song with you as well. Enjoy!
For centuries, Norwegian farmhouses had open fireplaces. A raised hearth was built in the center of the floor, with a smoke hole in the roof above. These “smoke houses” with a central hearth and/or corner fireplace were common along the western coast.
Tveismestova, the oldest building in the Hardanger Folk Museum Collection.
Kroting was a simple way of decorating a house with smoke-stained logs and few or no windows. In Fiddling With Fate, the 10th Chloe Ellefson Mystery, Chloe senses why it was important:
Chloe imagined living through a dark, cold winter in this dark, sooty room. Firelight flickered against the walls. Wind whistled through cracks, and sleety snow beat against the lone window. The air smelled of smoke and unwashed bodies. Somehow she understood that the designs brought comfort.
Kroting at Tveismestova.
Women mixed chalk with water or sour milk, and used their fingers to paint the geometric designs on the walls. Kroting was often done in conjunction with the major housecleaning undertaken for holidays or a wedding.
Kroting at Tveismestova.
Some of the geometric designs may have been decorative, but some employed symbols invoked to ward away evil and protect the inhabitants.
Another building at the Hardanger Folk Museum, Tronestova, dates to between 1650 and 1750. The kroting here uses white and a red derived from local minerals.
Kroting at Tronestova, Hardanger Folk Museum.
Several buildings now restored at Oslo’s Norsk Folk Museum also came from the southwestern part of Norway. The example below was copied in the 1940s from a pattern in a Hardanger farm.
The chalk decorations were not permanent. Very few original examples of kroting exist today, but fortunately some of the designs were saved. The reproductions found in these historic buildings provide a glimpse of life in dark Norwegian cabins hundreds of years ago.
The Hardanger Folkemuseum‘s traditional exhibits are amazing, but there is more to see at this museum in Utne, Norway! Up the hill from the museum proper is an open-air division. Two of the buildings there were original to the grounds, but most have been moved from other locations in the Hardanger area, and restored. It’s a gorgeous setting.
Eldhuset, a Cook House.
The buildings have been arranged to suggest a cluster farm, which was common in the 1800s. Several families often shared a courtyard or common area while farming their own holdings beyond.
When I was planning Fiddling With Fate, the 10th Chloe Ellefson Mystery, I chose to feature the Hardanger Folkemuseum in part because of the open-air division. My favorite building is Tveismestova (Tveisme House), which inspired the fictional Høygård used in the novel.
Warning: Mild plot spoilers ahead!
Tveismestova is the oldest building in the museum’s collection. Scholars believe the home was constructed between the 13th and 14th centuries.
Taken from inside the entryway, this shows the front door on left and the doorway to the main room on the right.This single space was used for everything. Note the raised hearth in the center and the kroting on the back wall. The wooden shutters in the back wall covered the hatch.
As tour guide Klara explained in the book, In the old days, people believed that a dead person’s soul would try to return to the house where it had lived, using the entrance where it last emerged. So bodies were removed through the hatch, which was kept closed at all other times. That way the soul wouldn’t return through the door.
A closer look at the raised fireplace, with iron kettle hanging above.Looking up at the smoke hole. It could be covered with a greased animal bladder.
The house has only one window, which replaced the original hatch. In one of the final chapters in Fiddling With Fate, Chloe approaches the house from this side, and peeks in the only window.
Tveismestova had a turf roof, constructed on top of a layer of birchbark…
…but some the buildings in the open-air division had slate roofs. This is the type of slate tile Chloe picks up in the book.
The real Tveisme Farm was struck by more than one tragedy. An avalanche struck the farm in 1781, killing the farmwife. The house, barn, and sheep barns survived, but the farm was moved to a safer location nearby–all except the old original house. When the farm burned down five years later, only the cabin remained.
Once moved to the Hardanger Folkemuseum in 1931, it had many stories to tell.
If you’re traveling in southwest Norway, and appreciate folk traditions, the Hardanger Folkemuseum is a must-see.
After my first visit, I knew I had to get my protagonist Chloe Ellefson there.
Most of Fiddling With Fate, the 10th Chloe mystery, takes pace in Hardanger, and the museum is prominently featured.
The region is famous for its folk costumes and textiles. The museum’s collection is stunning.
Textile gallery, Hardanger Folkemuseum.The Hardanger bunad, or folk costume. Bunads are folk costumes based on traditional folk costumes from rural areas. The Hardanger bunad has been widely adopted in modern Norway. Construction techniques used include elaborate beadwork, embroidery, and cutwork. The museum recently displayed 1,000 bodice inserts. You can see how they were worn with a vest in the photo above, and see some of the oldest in the photo below.Agnete Sivertsen, museum director, is an expert in regional textiles. When Mr. Ernst and I visited while on a group tour in 2015, she gave us a fantastic tour.
Music is another aspect of local culture. Hardanger fiddles, which have also come to represent the nation, are the region’s most famous instrument.
Another instrument, the Psalmodikon, has one string and is played with a bow. They were often used in the 1800s to accompany hymns, or to teach songs in school.
Other folk traditions are preserved and displayed at the museum as well, such as these pieces carved by Lars Trondson Kinsarvik.
The Hardanger Folkemuseum is a gem. After exploring the traditional exhibits, be sure to tour the open air division. (More on that next time.)
And if you’re like me, you may want to linger on the grounds, soaking in the landscape and thinking about people long gone…but not forgotten.
Cultural identity, and the many ways people explore and express their own, is one of the recurring themes in the Chloe Ellefson Mystery series.
When readers meet Chloe in Book 1, Old World Murder, she takes her own Norwegian heritage largely for granted. Her feelings evolve over time, and by Book 10, she is eager to learn more about her ancestors.
Mr. Ernst and I were lucky enough to celebrate our 20th wedding anniversary with a trip to Norway arranged by Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum.
We loved every minute in that beautiful country, but the place I was most reluctant to leave was Utne, in the Hardanger District of Hordaland County.
The village of Utne marks the northern tip of the Folgefonna peninsula between the Hardangerfjord and one of its branches, the Sørfjord.
The charming village is home to the Utne Hotel. It opened in 1722, and may well be Norway’s oldest continuously operating inn.
The region is famous for its rich folk heritage, including Hardanger fiddles and exquisite textiles. Utne is home to the Hardanger Folkemuseum, which preserves and celebrates these traditions.
Tradtional folk clothing on display at the museum. The couple on the left are dressed as bride and groom.The museum has a fine collection of Hardanger fiddles.
In addition to formal exhibits, the museum includes an open-air division. Most of the buildings have been moved from locations within the Hardanger region and restored on the museum grounds.
I wanted to get Chloe and her fiancé Roelke McKenna to Norway. When I started conceptualizing the 10th Chloe mystery, I knew what region they would explore. Quests both professional and personal send them to Utne.
Are you up for some armchair travel? I hope I captured a bit of the Hardanger area’s magic in Fiddling With Fate!
The book will be published on September 8, 2019. Stay tuned for more peeks behind the scenes.
I've worn many bonnets over the years: writer, reader, historical interpreter, curator, reenactor, naturalist, educator. I've never had a job I didn't love. How lucky is that?
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